By Gabriel Geller, WSET III
Gabe, which wines are you having this year for the four cups? I am asked this question every year, countless times. Does it really matter? It does, yes. But mostly to me. For you, dear readers, what should matter is which wines YOU like to drink for the four cups. Pesach is the celebration of freedom—freedom from Mitzrayim, from earthly, materialistic avdus, and the freedom to be the willful servants of Hashem. We have to drink four cups of wine on the night of the Seder, but b’H, we can freely choose the wines we enjoy most for that purpose. As I do every year, I plan on drinking the best rosé from Eretz Yisrael I can get for the first Seder, and the best rosé from the diaspora for the second Seder. But that’s me. I like using rosé, but if YOU prefer an off-dry white, a bold dry red, or a sparkling wine, go for it! Enjoy what you like. Yes, there are family customs and some rules that are interpreted in various fashions. However, in my humble opinion, drinking the four cups should be a pleasant experience done with hiddur mitzvah, and not merely a religious ritual we practice because we are asked to. And by hiddur mitzvah, I mean that the wine you pour in your daled kosos should be enjoyable to drink in that setting. Therefore, here is a selection of a variety of wines, each appealing to different approaches and palates. This Pesach, may each of your cups be more enjoyable than the next. L’chaim, chag sameach!
Razi’el, Rosé, Brut, NV: Several of my friends use a rosé sparkling wine for some or all the four cups. Rosé because it counts as red, and sparkling because they say it’s refreshing and easy to drink. While I love a good sparkling wine, rosé or not, I personally find the effervescence calls for slow sipping rather than for quick drinking, the latter of which is how I drink my four cups. For my aforementioned friends and those among you who can relate to their preferences, I recommend this complex traditional-method sparkling wine from Israel made by Eli Ben Zaken, who is also the proprietor and founder of Domaine du Castel. It is a rich, complex wine with elegant bubbles, and layers of red berries and stone fruits notes alongside subtle yeastiness. A truly luxurious wine to elevate your Seder.
Matar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019: Matar’s wines have gained many fans for their clean, consistent, and fruit-forward wines. Matar Winery, situated in the Golan Heights, minutes away from both the Lebanese and Syrian borders, has a clear new world style of winemaking without ever succumbing to the temptations of in-your-face, overly ripe wines. This Cabernet Sauvignon will satisfy the most demanding drinkers of bold, generous wines with a long finish and linear tannins.
Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico, 2022: No wonder this winery sells more than 80,000 cases/year to mainstream wine consumers! It is a delicious, easy-to-drink Chianti. With a medium body featuring juicy red and black fruits, earthy and savory notes of seared portobello in a balsamic glaze, refreshing acidity, and soft, silky tannins, this wine should also be a pleasure to drink throughout the meal.
Tura, Mountain Vista, Chardonnay, 2021: Yes, Tura makes white wines, as well. This Chardonnay shows a great balance of oak and fruit, it is neither too fruity nor too oaky, with medium acidity keeping it refreshing without feeling abrasive. It can also accompany an entire meal starting with matzah ball soup, followed by gefilte fish, chicken, and fruit salad.
Herzog, Variations, Be-leaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021: Last but not least, we cannot forget those who are sensitive to sulfites. While sulfites naturally occur in every wine (and many foods too), winemakers usually add some during the process to prevent premature oxidation. The Be-leaf is made from high-quality organic Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in Paso Robles, without any added sulfites. It is a juicy, delicious, quality Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of black and blue fruits and polished tannins. It is also CCOF organic-certified.