By Gabriel Geller
WSET III—Royal Wine/Kedem
Purim stands out as a unique holiday on our calendar, partly because G-d’s name is absent from Megillat Esther. However, the miracle of Purim serves as an obvious revelation of Hashem’s omnipresence and intervention, almost akin to the explicit mention of His name. L’havdil, without, G-d forbid, making any inappropriate comparisons, I would like to reveal here some special wines that might have gone under the radar of our readers. I highly recommend these wines for the upcoming Purim seudah. It is a diverse selection to suit every palate, as indulging in wine at the seudah is not only a tradition but also a great mitzvah. It becomes an even greater mitzvah when you genuinely enjoy drinking it. L’chaim!
Domaine Chante-Bise, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, 2021: Valérie Rousselle, the proprietor and CEO of Château Roubine in Provence whose rosé wines I have reviewed several times in this column, also owns wineries in other great French region such as Domaine Chante-Bise in the Rhône Valley. This blend of Syrah and Grenache is a juicy, earthy, and spicy expression, typical of this beautiful region. Enjoy it with lamb kebabs or seared portobello burgers.
Domaine Les Marronniers, Chablis, Valmur, Grand Cru, 2021: The wines of Chablis are always made from Chardonnay. However, most of them are not aged in oak, resulting in straightforward, crisp wines that are best enjoyed young and fresh. Some Chablis wines of the higher levels such as Premier Cru and Grand Cru like this Valmur (the name of the vineyard’s plot from which the grapes were sourced) are either fermented and/or aged in oak barrels and can even gain further complexity with some bottle aging. The result is a delightful wine with nice weight and viscosity in the mouth, notes of lemon and Bartlett pear with saline minerals, and mouth-watering acidity leading to a long and refreshing finish.
Morad, Passion Fruit Wine, NV: Whether you know me personally or not, you must think I’m a wine snob. I cannot deny it, but I’d lie if I pretended that I did not like this delicious Israeli “wine” made from passion fruit rather than grapes. Passion fruit is one of my favorite fruits, and its essence, aroma, and flavors are perfectly preserved here in great balance with the alcohol. Drink it with or as dessert, with hamantaschen, fruit pie, or fresh fruits.
Herzog, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2021: OK OK, forget the “under the radar” thing. If you don’t know about this wine or have never seen it before then you must have been living under a rock for the past 25 years or so. With that said, even if you do know about this wine, the 2021 vintage is a true revelation. It packs power, concentration, and depth like never before, and while it drinks amazingly well now, it should reward cellaring for decades to come. Wagyu ribeye anyone? I’ll bring the wine!
Netofa, Tel Qasser, Moursyr, 2021: With its flashy purple label, this wine is hard to hide. And what a wine this is! An unusual blend of mostly Mourvèdre, a French-Spanish (also known as Monastrell in Spain) variety, and Syrah. Perhaps a touch more fruit-forward than most Netofa wines, it features notes of ripe raspberries and blackberries with hints of wood smoke and leather. Medium to full-bodied, it is juicy and meaty on the palate with balancing acidity and touches of roasted herbs and oriental spices that linger long on the finish. Enjoy with a lamb chili or a beef tajine.